000 04218cam a2200529 i 4500
001 2015472507
003 DLC
005 20250921151251.0
008 150915s2015 nyua 000 0aeng
010 _a 2015472507
020 _a9781594203473 (hardcover)
020 _a1594203474 (hardcover)
035 _a(OCoLC)ocn861479073
039 _a116775
_cTLC
040 _aYDXCP
_beng
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_erda
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042 _alccopycat
043 _an-us---
050 0 0 _aGV838.F58
_bA3 2015
100 1 _aFinnegan, William,
_eauthor.
_0(DLC)n 85243377
245 1 0 _aBarbarian days :
_ba surfing life /
_cWilliam Finnegan.
264 1 _aNew York :
_bPenguin Press,
_c2015.
264 1 _a[Place of publication not identified] :
_b[Publisher not identified],
_c2015.
300 _a447 pages :
_bsome illustrations ;
_c25 cm
336 _atext
_btxt
_2rdacontent
337 _aunmediated
_bn
_2rdamedia
338 _avolume
_bnc
_2rdacarrier
380 _aBook
_2tlcgt
380 _aBiography
_2marcgt
385 _aGeneral
_2tlctarget
505 0 _aOff Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65) -- The shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (The South Pacific, 1978) -- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).
520 _aSurfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a native Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly -- he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui -- is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs.
600 1 0 _aFinnegan, William.
_0(DLC)n 85243377
600 1 7 _aFinnegan, William.
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650 0 _aSurfers
_zUnited States
_vBiography.
_0(DLC)sh 85130756
650 4 _aCloth or Hardcover.
_0(local)tlcaut1028983514266600
650 4 _aBiography / Autobiography.
_0(local)tlcaut2339871856700
650 4 _aPersonal Memoirs.
_0(local)tlcaut2340002012500
650 0 _aSurfing.
_0(DLC)sh 85130757
650 4 _aSpecial Interest - Adventure.
_0(local)tlcaut2340189214300
650 7 _aSurfers.
_2fast
_0(OCoLC)fst01139319
_0(local)tlcaut1027300949036900
651 7 _aUnited States.
_2fast
_0(OCoLC)fst01204155
_0(local)tlcaut1026669207031600
655 7 _aAutobiographies.
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655 7 _aBiography.
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655 7 _aAutobiographies.
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949 _aGABIO
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942 _cBK
999 _c19902
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